Ballroom Seamstress

The new year marks a new chapter in my sewing of dancesport gowns. After two years of honing my craft I am taking on my first paid commission.

The commission comes from my co-worker Jessica, who has recently returned to ballroom dancing after a year-long stint in a different career. Unfortunately for her, when she left ballroom dancing in favor of a career change, she did not figure on wanting to return and gave away or sold off many of her dancesport gowns. When love of dance and boredom of office work drew her back into professional dancing, she knew she would have to rebuild her dance wardrobe.

After some casual consultation, we arrived at a rough sketch of an off-shoulder gown that would form the basic dress. After sifting through some pictures of dresses online, Jessica picked out a drape to go with the basic dress. Finally, we came to the task of picking out fabric. Jessica expressed an interest in a brown color palette to complement her pale, brunette coloring. I was worried that some browns might be drab or uninteresting for a latin dress, but luckily I had one particular fabric in mind.

As usual, my go-to source for stretch fabrics is Fabric.com. At the time, they still had a wide selection of colors in one of my very favorite fabrics, Nylon Tactel. I had worked with the Maroon shade before and knew that it had just enough of a reddish tone to give the predominantly brown color pizazz for a latin dress.

The next challenge was sizing. I had only ever made dancesport dresses for myself before this commission, and so I was a bit apprehensive to design a dress to fit another person. On the one hand, dancesport dresses are made of four way stretch fabric, and so they can often work for a range of sizes. Often, dress rental or resale sites list dress sizes by the range they accommodate, rather than assigning one size or another. On the other hand, dancesport dresses are made to fit very close to the body, so a bit too large or small in the wrong place could be disastrous.

After taking Jessica's measurements, they turned out to be similar enough to my own that I brought in a basic dance dress I had made for myself to check the fit before I started designing. The dress turned out to be a good fit for the bust, wait and hips, but what I hadn't anticipated was the difference in torso length. Jessica is only a couple inches shorter than I am, and I had figured with the elastic and stretch fabric, those couple inches wouldn't matter much, but in fact the dress bunched up at her middle in a way that couldn't have been fixed even by shortening the straps. The good news was, I could use my default dress-with-bodysuit pattern for Jessica, but it needed some adjustment, so I took a wild guess-timate and shortened all the basic pattern pieces by an inch before beginning the design process. 

Luckily, my first commission also coincided with my first dress form—a timely Christmas present from my parents. Even before I had received any inquiries from folks interested to commission me for dancesport design, I had reached a point in my sewing where I felt an acute need for a dress form. To a certain extent, being my own dress form is a good thing; I have learned how important it is to try on clothing during the sewing process to assess fit and the dress form does not completely substitute for real life try-on. However, there are certain aspects of sewing and tailoring that turn out to be near impossible when wearing one's own dress. I didn't want to lug every dress or skirt over to my mom's house every time I needed to hem so I could stand on her ottoman and let her measure up the hem with pins. And so I was excited to get my new dress form, a Singer DF150, size small. 

So far, this dress form has treated me well. The only trouble I've had with it are that the adjustment dials hit a limit when there is an unusual discrepancy between two adjacent measurements; try to dial up a 33" bust and a 31" waist (the small and large limits of this particular form) and one of the measurements will snap up or down a size. This isn't a big issue for me, since the dress form works fine with my measurements, and I work mainly with stretch fabrics. Real-life try-on plus forgiving stretch fabrics ensure a proper fit, while the dress form still serves as a useful mannequin. 

It was especially useful in working attaching the drape of this dress, but not so useful in marking up the hem. Because dancesport dresses have a built-in bodysuit, and the dress form doesn't approximate the whole length and shape of the torso, the crotch of the bodysuit is stretched across the full cut-off hip. When I attempted to hem the basic dress, it gave me the illusion that I had more skirt length than I actually did, and so I didn't mark the hem far enough down in back, and the skirt would ride up on Jessica when she tried it on. Not good for dancing freestyles with students (or anybody, yikes!). Luckily I'd saved the skirt section after I had cut off. It was still sewn together at the exact size of the tube skirt to which it had previously belonged. That, and it was a little longer on one side, and a little shorter on the other (from having marked the hem higher in the front and lower in the back), and so after removing the elastic rolled hem from the bottom of the too-short skirt, I reattached the tube piece with the longer (originally cut away from the front) section in back and the shorter (originally cut away from the back) section in the front, then elastic hemmed the bottom. The result? I shaped tube skirt with the inverted pieces acting dart-like the fit the hips. No more riding up!

I was a little nervous heading into this project to work with draping fabric. I had only ever made straightforward form-fitting dresses without any overlay. Jessica, however, had gravitated toward dresses with draping overlays while scouring photos in the design process, and so a drape it would be. Luckily I had stocked up on some extra of her fabric, just in case my first attempt at the drape was a disaster. It turned out to be pretty simple. The drape was fundamentally two large triangles front and back, gathered at the shoulder, narrow-hemmed and attached to the dress at each hip to form the desired effect. The only unexpected consequence was that the slit-open drape sections on the side that did not have the triangle tales were a little flappy at first. I had to cut them and re-hem them to match them up with the contours of the dress. 

The last big challenge of the Jessica dress was the open shoulder. I had never designed an off-shoulder dress before, and in designing the pattern pieces I simple created a smooth diagonal from the shoulder to the armpit. With the dress substantially done, Jessica complained that it felt like her womanly assets might just pop out of that side when she danced. The strap couldn't be tightened any further without making the dress lop-sided. I debated over possible fixes. I considered crossing the straps in back, changing the strap orientation on one side to halter... but all of those fixes had a fatal downside.

In the meantime, I began the design work on a new smooth dress. I wanted to make this new dress off-shoulder, and given the issues Jessica was having, I designed this one differently so that there was not a straight diagonal, but rather the neckline had a bit of a rise where the strap would be. It turned out great and I cursed myself for not having thought of it when designing Jessica's dress. You live, you learn, right? But the perfectionist in me would not let it go. Jessica was a paying customer (all be it with a friend/co-worker/design-guinea-pig discount). I couldn't make a dress for her that was any less than I would make for myself.

After much deliberation and measuring, I designed pattern pieces from the scraps of Jessica's original dress cuts to sew into the current dress to make it just like the new dress I had just designed. It was a tricky procedure. I had to rip out more of the current neckline, along with the elastic to get down the the raw edges so that I could sew on the make-up pieces, both to the front of the dress and to the bodysuit, make sure they matched up with each other and blended into the neighboring parts of the dress. I was essentially revising my old pattern piece after the dress was finished. Luckily my calculations were correct, and apart from a short seam (which would be covered on the outside with rhinestones) the addition was unnoticeable. 

When all was said and done, I finished the dress by stoning it on the bodice, and on the triangle-point drape with 20ss and 16ss crystal stones, and on the dress with 16ss smoked topaz stones. See upcoming posts for more on the stoning process.

Posted by S.K. Slevinski at 03:37 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Two of my gowns in progress received their finishing touches in the last week, which is to say the finishing touches of gown construction. The details of adding rhinestones to these dresses are yet to come.

The first is my Goldenrod colored smooth dress. Last we checked in the dress was skirt-less and unfinished along the bottom edge of the separate top. I made a skirt according to my previous method, using more of the stretch nylon goldenrod fabric for the main skirt sections and then using ivory-colored nylon chiffon tricot (from Fabric.com) for the triangular godet sections. I decided to use a contrasting color for the godets because I had used that chiffon before and liked working with it, but it did not come in any shade closer to yellow. Also, I like to use contrast whenever possible, and using ivory chiffon allowed me to coordinate with ivory satin trim for both the skirt and the top.

Making the satin trim for this dress, I used my 2-inch bias tape maker for the first time. It turned out to be a great advantage over making bias trim by hand. It's still a time-consuming process (as is everything with dress construction), but the bias tape maker allowed me to streamline the most labor-intensive part of the process, which is the ironing of the two edges inward. After that, folding the trim in half to iron was a simple process, and the tape was ready to go.

The essential finishing touch of the skirt was this ivory satin bias trim in conjunction with a horsehair braid. I've found horsehair to be an essential ingredient in the construction of smooth gowns and even some Latin. It give the skirt shape like nothing else; it is no wonder that almost all the smooth dresses from vendors at the last competition I went to were finished with horsehair braid.

My lavender Latin dress was all put together, but for a faux belt in a contrasting color of white. This belt is essentially a long strip of fabric, reinforced with elastic fusible interfacing, sewed together at the ends and then folded in half. The only tricky part was making sure that the strip was precisely the correct length for fitting the hips at the point where the drape top would end. When the contrast belt was cut and fused, I fitted the drape top by pulling the sloped edges taut around my dressform, safety-pinning them together after angling them as needed to make it lay as I wanted it to across the dress. I trimmed away the excess edges and then basted the overlapping sloped edges together. From there, I sewed on the folded contrast belt, adding interest and finishing the bottom edge of the top in one go.

Posted by S.K. Slevinski at 02:06 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

I've started designing a new Latin dress. The inspiration behind this dress is, in a way, two fold.

I frequently purchase athletic stretch fabrics in bulk when I find them on sale. I recently purchased a large amount of medium-weight, four-way stretch fabric in a unique color of salmon red in order to make a dress for planned Paso routine. However, the amount of this fabric available to purchase didn't quite get me to the minimum $35 for free shipping at Fabric.com. It's never a bad idea to stock up on high performance fabric when it's available, so I included a few yards of some yellow and some lavender fabric in my order. Once the fabric is in my house, then it's on my mind, and I always have it referenced for potential projects. This time, the lavender was stirring with me.

The second motivation for this dress is wanting to try a new style that I haven't worked with before. Looking at fashion media for inspiration, I've been intrigued lately by dress styles with fuller coverage drapey tops and form-fitting mini-skirts. It's not necessarily a dress style that would be my first choice for the next showcase or competition on my schedule, but by the same token, purple is not one of my favorite wardrobe colors. And so the idea came to me to try out this new dress design that's night quite my style with a fabric that's not quite my color. Call it a second best dress, if you will.

The challenge in creating the drape top is in fashioning a large pattern piece for cutting it. I debated whether to use the natural bias drape of the rectangular fabric, simply wrapping it around my dressform and then figuring out where to cut, but that seemed a bit willy-nilly for my taste, and so I cut a large rectangular piece of fabric on the fold of the fabric with a neckline to match the off-shoulder bodysuit, and then cut additional fabric off the back side of the piece so that the back of the dress would be a bit bare. I ended up with a fairly enormous piece of fabric, and I worried that the sleeves might be too bulky (which they yet may be; the dress isn't far enough along to tell), but it worked out well because the pattern piece turned out to be precisely the width (wrist to hip) of the 60" fabric, so it was an economical cut.

I knew I wanted the skirt and the drape top to be two separate pieces, however, I wasn't sure whether to attach them to each other, or to attach the skirt first to the bodysuit. I eventually settled on attaching the skirt to the bodysuit because I worried that the skirt would ride up if it were independent of the bodysuit, given the unstable nature of the drapey top. Besides which, I wanted to be able to anchor the drape top to the bottom half of the dress with a contrast belt in such a way that it would be stretched in front and not blouse at the belt. The only downside I foresaw with attaching the skirt to the bodysuit rather than the top was that the blouse effect might happen anyway if a lady shorter than me wore the dress... an issue always in the back of my head, an inevitable side effect, I suppose, of working on a dress project that's not necessarily for me, but not specifically for anyone else. Ultimately, the risk that it would blouse all the time if not attached to the bodysuit was enough that I decided it was better to make sure, at least, it did not blouse on me. 

I cut out the skirt, sewed it together at the sides and attached it first to the back of the bodysuit at the low backline. Then I finished the edges of the bodysuit in an elastic narrow hem, attached the front of the drape top to the neckline of the bodysuit with an elastic narrow hem, and finally, sewed the elastic straps in place once all the narrow-hemming had been complete. The elastic narrow hem was a little tricky in places, as some areas of the outside edge of the dress were only bodysuit, and some were bodysuit and dress, and I wanted the elastic to be continuous from one to the other. It worked out well in the end, and upon assembling the bones of the dress, I was able to try it on to safety-pin the front part of the skirt to its best height on the bodysuit front. I sewed the skirt in place to the front of the bodysuit with simple zig-zag stick, as it would not be visible in the finished product. 

Now came the fitting of the drape. This was the first time I had ever worked on a project where I got the dress mostly assembled before cutting out one of the pattern pieces, namely the contrast belt. The belt would need to fit the upper hips snugly and I wanted to be able to measure the precise place where the drape top ended and the belt would be attached before designing the pattern piece. It was a good thing, too, because when I got the partially-assembled dress on my dressform, I discovered that I had estimated the drape to be too long by about an inch and a half. I removed an inch and a half from the entire bottom of the drape piece, resewed the sleeve, put it back on the form and measured. The belt would be fairly easy to design (a rectangular strip of fabric to be folded and attached to the bottom drape edge), as long as I had the correct measurements. I have my pattern piece now, and first on tomorrow's agenda is cutting out the belt fabric. 

Posted by S.K. Slevinski at 01:42 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

I'm working on a new Smooth dress for Spring Showcase. The design grew out of a variety of circumstances and inspirations.

The idea first started because I was thinking that I needed to come up with some wardrobe elements for Country Western dancing. At the last Showcase, I wore my Smooth wardrobe for C/W because the country dancing came right after smooth. I wasn't sure if I'd have time to change, otherwise I could have worn jeans, but after going to a national competition in the fall, I realized that having dancesport wardrobe for country western will be essential as I go forward. I didn't relish the thought of wearing a button-down cowboy shirt, and so I wondered if I might just wear a more casual-looking bejeweled shirt with jeans. It would, at least, suffice for the meantime. 

The more I thought about this bejeweled shirt, the more I wondered, what if it had a matching skirt? I had made a smooth skirt as a separate piece previously and was quite happy with the result. Slowly but surely it came to me... if I had a smooth gown in two pieces, I could easily change out of the skirt and into jeans for C/W, or vice versa. If the skirt were detached, I could even change in a semi-public place, if need be, pulling the jeans on underneath and then taking the skirt off over the jeans once I was dressed. I didn't need a proper bodysuit for Smooth freestyles, after all, there wouldn't be any athletic choreography with my students, just syllabus material. 

The skirt design was pretty much a foregone conclusion. I would simply use the skirt pattern and method I had used before. It would be the top piece that would anchor the outfit, and it would need to be something that would look elegant for smooth, but somewhat casual for country. It would also need to work well with the jeans, color-wise. Blue was out, it would look washed out with the jeans. I didn't want to do pink, because I was already working on a pink latin dress. Green would result in almost the same problem as blue. I toyed with red, but I'm reluctant to make red dresses because red is a pretty typical dress color, and thus doesn't stand out as well in freestyles.    

After acquiring several yards of a few different colors of stretch nylon fabric on clearance at Fabric.com, I weighed my options. Clearly my best choice was a stunning goldenrod color that would stand out against the jeans, but also stand out as a smooth dress for freestyles. The only problem is that orange and yellow aren't really my colors with my fair, pink-ish skin and blond hair. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to break out the fake tanner once again.

In designing the all important detached top for this dress, I decided on an off-shoulder style. It could be potentially very easy to design, with nearly identical pattern pieces front and back. However, having a lot of fabric on the back of the dress means having all the more space to fill with rhinestones. Besides, I've never minded back-less. The problem, however, is that it couldn't be backless so far down as to expose the waistband of the separate skirt, one of the pitfalls of making dance dresses in two pieces.

The more I thought, the more I gravitated toward the idea of a drape back. It would allow most of the back to be open, but it could cut across the back high enough to cover the skirt waistband. Since the dress would be two pieces and thus would not need a bodysuit, I decided to design the drape right into the back pattern piece, rather than adding a separate piece later, sort of like a cowl neckline. The trick was creating a misshapen pattern piece for the back that would attach to a regularly proportioned piece in front. This meant melding two parts of the back pattern together, first, a stable section from the upper-hips down, and then a widened section angling each side of the top back outward to create the extra fabric in between for the drape. I played with the angles several times before finally settling on a pattern piece that looked promising. I had an excess of fabric, and I'd gotten it cheaply, so I told myself I could try again if it turned out badly.

Over the weekend, I got all the pieces of the top assembled with the straps in place. Even though I didn't have a bodysuit, I wanted built-in bra cups, so I made the front piece of the top double-layered with flesh colored fabric underneath, finishing it with an elastic rolled hem in my usual fashion. I did a non-elastic narrow hem across the drape section, and then sewed the two pieces together. The initial results were promising, but once the straps were attached, and the drape sewn onto the shoulder, I discovered that the cowl-back was quite attractive. The end result was not as dramatic a drape as I had imagined, but otherwise everything I could have hoped for. All I have left is to finish the bottom in a satin trim to match the planned ivory trim of the skirt, and of course, to add the rhinestones.

Onward and upward to the matching skirt. 

Posted by S.K. Slevinski at 01:54 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

I took my latest rhythm dress to a stage of substantial completeness over the weekend. I just have to elastic hem the bottom of the underlying tube skirt, add a flesh-colored strap across the back, sew in the bra cups, and reinforce the straps at their attachment points. In other words, things I could do the week before Showcase, if need be.

All in all, this dress went smoothly. It was a fairly simple basic design using my go-to bodysuit/dress pattern. I enhanced the design in two places. I added a two-layered circular skirt and structured the dress to have an uneven side cut-out.

The most difficult part of the side cut-out was not making it too large or too low. Design items like cut-outs look so much smaller on the pattern pieces than they do on the body. When I first drew the cut-out, and then went to make a bodysuit pattern, I realized the bottom of the cut-out would be all of one inch from the top of the bodysuit leg. Yikes! I didn't want to show that much skin! So I taped more tissue back into the pattern piece and started again until I had a cut out that seemed like it would be the right mix of modest and saucy. 

When I first basted the bodysuit into the dress, however, the dress pulled the cut-out side a little lower than I wanted. What was happening? It seemed I was too tall for the pattern, but no, I had used the pattern before with good success. I realized then that maybe the pattern wasn't the right size after all... not the whole pattern, but rather, the bodysuit portion of the pattern. The dresses that I'd made before simply hadn't revealed the defect in my base pattern because they had always previously been symmetrical. The only evidence of it on my red dress was the legs of the bodysuit being a little higher than I expected (I had just assumed high-cut legs were the intention of the pattern).

I removed the basting stitches, tossed the bodysuit into my bag of substantial scraps and cut a new bodysuit, adding an inch of length to the pattern pieces above the leg holes and below the cut out. I sewed the new pieces, basted the bodysuit inside and voila! No uneven pull.

The only disappointment with the asymmetrical cut-out is that I had wanted more of a rounded ski-slope shape, rather than a semi-circle. The cut-out was fine before I sewed the elastic into it, but the elastic narrow hem pulls it into a semi-circle. It still looks good, but it's just not what I intended. I suppose if I ever want a particularly shaped cut-out in the future I'll have to use a different method of bodysuit/elastic attachment, perhaps attaching them with right-sides together.

The circular skirts were the most work. The first cut ended up being too big because I had used a circular skirt pattern from a different project and my measurements were off by a fourth of an inch. Better too large than too small. I corrected the skirt and then went to mark the place to attach it. Turned out that the skirt-marking tool on my dress form was not designed to mark a level line when attaching a skirt at hip-height. It would mark higher on the front and back than on the sides because it was designed to mark in a circle. Unluckily I did not have a yard stick at my apartment and so had to hold a measuring tape taut around the hips and eye it up before marking. The black contrast skirt was easier to attach because with the pink one already in place I had simply to line up the raw edge of the black with that of the pink.

I was on the fence about how next to proceed with my circular shirts. I knew I wanted a horsehair braid trim, but I was debating about whether simply to fold up the horsehair in a simple hem, or to add a satin trim. My last horsehair project was a plain black smooth skirt, and I still had a few yards of homemade black satin bias trim (plus enough 3-inch bias strips already cut to add enough trim for the circular skirt), which, in that project, had been necessary to hide the horsehair on the chiffon godet sections. I also had a fair bit of hot pink stretch satin in my substantial scraps bag from the bodice of a bridesmaid dress I made last spring. Two issues held me back, though. First, I had cut the black satin bias strips before I'd obtained a 2-inch bias tape maker. 3-inch wide bias strips are too small for the bias tape maker, and even if I cut the hot pink satin to the right size, the trim would be noticeably larger than the black satin trim. Adding trim meant that I would have to iron all the bias tape by hand, which amounts to three passes—first on the half fold, next one side folded in, and finally the other side folded in.

Well, I was feeling ambitious on Sunday night and decided to go for the satin trim. My next concern was how exactly to use the bias trim. Should I put the black satin on the black skirt and the hot pink satin on the pink skirt? Or should I do contrasting trim? Would the black on the pink skirt stand out enough against the black background of the skirt below it?

I decided to try for the contrasting trim. Luckily, the sheen of the satin plus the protruding nature of the horsehair sets off the black trim from the black skirt and gives the skirts a striped effect.

The only thing left to decide is if and how to add rhinestones!

Posted by S.K. Slevinski at 03:21 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Back at home, my off hours were spent finishing up my dresses for the event. With only a few short weeks left, it was crunch time for finishing three garments of varying complexity. My project planning and time management for sewing has increased significantly since the Spring Showcase, earlier this year, when I finished only one very simple dress, and had to scrap plans for a second at the last minute.

A typical showcase demands three dance costumes for the professional instructor, in my estimation (if dancing in student routines, perhaps more). When I attended my first few showcases as a new dance instructor, I wore only one dress the whole night. Now, as I have increasing numbers of students performing freestyle dances, I want to look the part for each aspect of the exhibition.

The day starts off with Smooth Freestyles and Routines. I didn't have any routines this time around, but I did have a number of freestyles throughout the day. Last showcase, I wore a store-bought, floor-length red dress, but this time I wanted to wear something I had sewed myself. I did not, however, want to fashion an entirely new dress with bodysuit, etc. because I was already working on such a ballgown for my professional routine at Showcase (more on that later). I simply cannot wear the same gown for student freestyles as I do for my professional routine.

After wracking my brain about the possibilities, the fabric available and the patterns in my collection, I decided that I would fashion a black skirt. I used as my base the Simplicity New Look Pattern 6461. I had used this pattern in the past to make a short pink skirt, and I liked how it turned out. With eight flared skirt sections, it has a lot of movement, and the opportunity to add godets for even more movement. The long skirt pattern pieces are separate from the short ones, so I still had them in their entirety, fresh and ready to go. Still and all, the pattern for the long skirt wasn't as long as I wanted, so I used the extension markers to add about 7 inches to the pattern pieces. 

Next, I contemplated what fabric to use. I had several yards of black lycra in stock, but I was worried that it might be too thin for a long skirt, and besides, it had been over $5 a yard on sale; long skirts eat up and awful lot of fabric and so I wanted something more economical. I settled quickly on black ponte double knit. It has a little stretch and a lot of drape, and I had several yards I had bought at Joann with a 50% off coupon. For the godets I ordered some Nylon Chiffon Tricot from Fabric.com in matching black. I've worked with this Chiffon before, and I like it for a number of reasons, but it also has some downsides. On the positive side, it's easy to work with, frays very little, boasts a subtly glossy sheen and has a nice drape. It's hardy for being as sheer as it is. On the downside, it has a moderate propensity to snag, wrinkles easily and is just a little bit too sheer for my tastes. The sheerness wasn't an issue in my aforementioned ballgown, since it has an underskirt, but in the black skirt, it looks almost like there's nothing between my skirt sections when I spin around. Not the worst thing in the world; the godets don't go higher than mid-thigh, and I've seen long dancesport dresses made specifically with open skirt sections for leggy smooth dances, like the tango. 

All in all, the skirt was coming together well, though I worried that it might be a problem for tango. While the godets made the skirt full on the bottom, the cut is slim to mid thigh at the top. As smooth dances go, the tango is a bit different because it requires a fair bit of leg interweaving with one's partner. I have at least one student doing ganchos (hooking your partner's leg with your own) in his freestyle and I didn't want the skirt to get in the way. Luckily, before I attached the godets, I found myself in a conversation at the studio with some of our longtime students about dancewear and learned a great tip. One student with a lot of competition experience mentioned that most smooth skirts his teachers have worn over the years have a slit up the skirt. I paid attention on the next episode of Dancing with the Stars, and sure enough, all of the smooth skirts I saw that night had one, or more, slits.

I sewed the upper areas of the skirt sections together down to where the godets were marked to start. I picked a place on the left side of the skirt where I wanted the slit to be, and attached the godet to the skirt on one side. I sewed a narrow hem on the godet and skirt section left open, thus creating the slit. I sewed in the godets to the remaining openings and the skirt was complete, save for the waist and the hem.

That was, until I tried it on in the mirror. The heaviness of the double knit ponte with the light, unstructured chiffon produced a droopy, shapeless column, not at all the flowing ballgown skirt I'd envisioned. Finishing the hem would give it some shape, I knew, but would a simple narrow hem be enough to give it the lift and profile I wanted?

I had seen a wire hem on practice skirts around the studio, and so I resolved to figure out how to use this technique to add body to my droopy skirt. After a fair bit of googling I discovered a message forum conversation about making wire hems. The process seemed potentially tricky, and the recommendations for using fishing wire made me uneasy since it was not a product sold at my local fabric store and I would have to choose from a number of different weights and colors. Within that discussion, however, came a recommendation from one of the participants for using horsehair braid to give skirts shape. This product, on the other hand, was readily available at the Joann, so I went to the store to investigate the next day.

Contrary to my mental image of braided horse tails, I found that horsehair braid is a polyester mesh. Joann had it in store by the yard in either one inch or half inch sizes. The one inch seemed like overkill, so I went with the half inch. Because I had a coupon, I decided to stock up and get 8 yards. Good thing I did because my skirt ended up using nearly seven of them. The braid is wily, hard to keep wound for storage, but that's precisely what makes it stand up to the weight of a long skirt. I found it easy to work with because it is flat like a ribbon. What I didn't anticipate (but probably should have) was that it didn't look terribly attractive under the chiffon. I had planned to roll it up in the hem, but doing so exposed the raw edge of the chiffon on the right side of the finished skirt.    

What to do? I didn't want to have to wait until Monday to get bias tape from the fabric store, but I was close to done and didn't want to have to go to the effort of making my own trim. In the end, however, I was swayed by the fact that if I fashioned my own trim, I could use satin fabric, which would be a lot more attractive than matte store-bought bias tape; as an added bonus, I could get it done before the weekend was over. It turned out to be well worth the effort (unlike another attempt at trim that I tried later on my ball gown), and even without a bias tape maker of the correct size, the trim was easy to make. I cut two and a half inch wide bias strips of the satin fabric I had in my stores, then I ironed it in half, and finally tucked each side in as far as the fold, and ironed it that way. Voila! I had my own homemade, three-quarter inch satin bias tape. I sewed the horsehair to the inside of the raw edge of the skirt and then covered it up by sewing on the bias trim. The final effect was better than I could have hoped for.

The waistband was last to be finished. I sewed inch-wide elastic onto the edge of the waistband, rolled it under and sewed it again. For the finished dress I paired it with a hot pink bodice I had made for a bridesmaid's dress earlier in the year. With satin and boning, it wasn't exactly dancewear proper, but I knew I'd only be using it to dance with students in predominantly closed routines, so flexibility of the bodice section wasn't a huge concern.     

Posted by S.K. Slevinski at 03:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

You might not imagine that Halloween costume sewing and dancesport sewing have much in common. Typically, Halloween costumes are made of lower quality fabrics to keep costs down on an outfit meant to be worn for one night a year, or perhaps even just one night in a lifetime. On Halloween, it is permissible to wear garments and accessories that don't fit quite right, or that look generally inauthentic, because as long as the general idea of our costumes get communicated to fellow party-goers, we have made a successful go of dressing up for the holiday. 

As a seamstress, I take pride in producing quality garments, no matter what the occasion, though I will admit that the "one night" aspect of Halloween affects the gusto of my drive for authenticity. This Halloween, I had two sewing projects, one large and one small.

The large project was my main Halloween costume. My boyfriend and I decided to have another try at couples costuming, given a pretty successful foray the year before as He-Man and She-ra. Most elements of those costumes had been purchased; I had the good luck to find an adult She-ra costume online. I had to alter the bra cups, which were enormous for a medium, and cover the area where the inside straps were attached with t-shirt scraps because the gold accents were so itchy. When nothing suitable could be found, either from costume shops or from thrift stores, for He-Man's breast plate, I fashioned one out of faux-suede upholstery fabric and red felt.

This year we struggled to find a good idea. Feasibility is always a concern with Halloween costumes. We've often talked about dressing up as Link and Zelda, but it would be very hard to put those costumes together, and would probably involve much labor-intensive design and sewing on my part. My sewing skills and available free time don't add up to Link and Zelda just get. It was important, also, to choose a couples costume that reflected our interests and personalities; any old costume that can be bought at a store in a couples package won't do. After a bit of debate, we arrived at an idea that was both palatable and do-able: Gaius Baltar and Caprica Six from the new Battlestar Galactica.

The only problem with Gaius and Six was making the costumes recognizable. We had resigned ourselves to the fact that people who had never seen the show would simple not recognize us. Thus we had to do our best to be authentic to as many details as possible so that fans of the show would pick up on our identities easily. The danger was that our costumes would look too ordinary; we didn't want to be just a guy in a suit and a lady in a red dress. We found some photos on the internet of fans who had gone this route for a couples costume who ended up doing precisely that, but we also found some more successful attempts, and used those for ideas.

After searching the websites of standard commercial sewing pattern producers for a pattern that could be used or adapted for a Six-like dress, I came up with nothing. Given the the problem of being recognizable, and the lack of reasonable facsimiles, I decided to design the dress myself so that it would look as much like the original as possible. I found a couple of photos online of Six-dress replicas that had been made as costumes, and one in particular that included a description of a few of the challenges faced by the seamstress. After studying these dresses, plus photos of the real Six dress, I developed an initial plan, including some things I wanted to keep, and some I decided to eliminate.

I wanted to retain the seam across the fullest part of the bust, which was not included in all of the replicas I saw. I liked it for it's decorative aspect, and because I could use it as something of a lateral dart to shape the bodice. I decided to get rid of the waist-line seam from the original, because, while it is hardly visible on the dress tailored to Trisha Helfer, it was a little too visible in some of the replicas, and I don't like when dresses visually cut across the middle. I also decided not to bother with a zipper or the seamless sides. The side slits would be easier to make with side seams, and I didn't deem that it would affect the authenticity of the costume's appearance with any significance. As for the zipper, I figured that since I had decided to use four-way stretch fabric, why bother?

Essentially, I had three pattern pieces (not including the straps) after the initial design: the upper bodice, and the dress front and back. After sewing together these three elements and trying the dress on, I discovered two things. First, I would need a lining, because every detail of my underwear showed through the clingy fabric. I had decided to use Dryflex high performance 4-way stretch knit, partly because it was on sale at Fabric.com, and because they had two colors of red that I liked. This decision was good and bad. I very much enjoyed working with the Dryflex, and have since bought up a bunch of this fabric for future projects. On the downside, it doesn't have the kind of drape I would have liked for a slinky dress. I'm going to try cutting it on the bias for making skirts in the future, but for the Six dress, I just consoled myself with the inherent imperfection of Halloween costumes and kept working. Secondly, in the first try-on, I discovered that I had forgotten to add an upper seam allowance to the back dress piece, and so I would have to open the cut outs a little wider at the bottom to compensate. As a result, the side cut-outs would be larger than the dress from the show. I resolved that I would just have to show a little more skin than Six, and I took my pattern pieces to some red Jet Set, a fairly thin stretch knit readily available at the local Joann, to make the lining. 

The next task was to finish the cut-outs and neck line. My first attempt was to make slender facings out of the Dryflex and sew them to the dress and lining in a method similar to how I would use bias-tape as an inside facing. That worked out okay, but the points of the cut-outs weren't strong enough and thus didn't retain their shape as well as I wanted. I decided, then, to use regular bias tape on the inside of these facings to reinforce them. That method worked to reinforce the shape, but the dress still had a tendency to open up at the cut-outs when I moved, making the dress look a little bunched-up. At last I decided to try one final strategy to make the cut-outs stay in place. I ripped out the cut-out and neck-line seams one last time and replaced the internal bias tape with elastic, finishing the edges just as I would a ballroom dancesport dress. Finally, the cut-outs didn't bunch, and the dress hugged my body.

While the Six Dress was my main concern this Halloween, I did end up with a side project. Our annual Halloween party at work was on Friday the 30th. My costume creativity was largely sapped, and I knew I could not wear the Six costume. There aren't enough sci-fi nerds at the studio to recognize it, especially without my Gaius Baltar, and so I knew I had to wear something else. In the end, I recycled my She-ra outfit from last year (I had worn something different to the work party last year), but realized I would be dancing, and thus face different costuming dilemmas.

The cape would simply have to be dealt with, nothing for it; my spins would just have to be more conservative. The skirt was also a problem, as it would clearly flare out when I spun, leaving people with a full view of my posterior, but ballroom dancers have tackled that problem before. I simply bought a pair of spandex boy shorts to wear underneath. My last problem was trickier. There was no way I could dance for four hours in the boots I'd worn last year. They were high-heeled platforms, and had given my feet a lot of trouble last year, even not dancing in them. Additionally, it would be, of course, ideal to wear dance shoes for this event, since I would be expected to spent the evening dancing with our students. Investing in dance boots for one night was not high on my list of options.

I decided, instead, to create some faux-boots. Something that would fit over my leg, giving the illusion of boots, while still leaving my feet free to wear dance shoes. I scoured my fabric in storage and found some cream-colored moleskin leftover from an old project. There was just enough to fit the bill, and so I formulated a plan. I found an unused sleeve pattern from a project in my pattern library. I traced the sleeve that was a couple sizes larger than my usual shirt size, and took a few informal measurements. I reduced the curve of the sleeve cap, since it reached much higher over my knee than a boot would. I shorted the bottom appropriately, and flared it so that it would have some extra room around the top of my foot.

After cutting out pieces of moleskin from my modified pattern, I machine basted one and tried it on. I decided to bring the seam in a little tighter so that the boots would hug my calves better and not fall down (the moleskin had a bit of stretch, so the fit needed to be snug). I sewed the pattern pieces together down the sleeve seam, but left a few inches open at the end for my heel. I hemmed the bottoms and the heel vents, and then applied fusible interfacing to the round top of the boots to give them structure. Finally, I finished the tops of the boots with leftover red bias tape as an accent... and voila! Fake boots. To my relief, they crept down only a little as I danced; I had to fix them only a couple times during the night.   

Posted by S.K. Slevinski at 03:43 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)